Heritage walk Dalhousie Square, Kolkata

Dalhousie Square or BBD Bagh (in the name of three valiant leaders Benoy, Badal and Dinesh) in Kolkata is the former seat of British administration and commerce. The capital of the largest British Empire in the Indian subcontinent. Reflected in the grandiose old buildings. Expressed in its Georgian, Victorian, and late Gothic architecture styles. The rich architectural experience and its evolution still stand today.

Discover for yourself, the historic city centre of Dalhousie square in Kolkata, a significant heritage zone of the nation on your footsteps. Supported by authentic interpretations. Explained of its impact on the evolution of this city. A tour with a difference ~ personalised, imaginative and dramatically educative.

So where and how to commence this discovery?

There is no better setting-off point than where it pretty well at began-the site of the First Fort William, the throbbing heart of the city with commercial establishment and administrative buildings around the Tank Square which the British named Dalhousie Square and now Benoy Badal Dinesh (BBD) Bagh since 1969 in the post independence period. Here is an account on some of the historic buildings to the experienced in this walk.

Writers Buildings (1765)

Writers Building, designed by Architect Thomas Lyon, was constructed in 1766 initially for the residence of writers or junior civil servants of the East India Company from where building derives its name. This building was in austere Palladian Style as seen in the illustration of Daniell’s painting of 1797. In 1821 it was ornamented with three pediments in front supported on colonnades for the Fort William College. In 1880, Bengal Secretariat moved to the Writers’ Building. During 1882-83, Writers Building acquired the present Victorian facade when the octagonal Bengal Legislative Council Chamber was added at the western end. Thus it attained the status as the seat of British Government by the Lieutenant Governor Ashely Eden. The luxury portico above the central entrance was supported by a row of handsome Corinthian pillars surmounted by National Court of Arms and statue of Brittanica. This magnificent example of Victorian Architecture is approximately 225 meter in length and superb facade contains allegorical sculpture figure of Science, Agriculture, Commerce and justice by the sculpture Fredrick Woodington. Today the Writers Building continues to serve much the same purpose as the Administrative office of the West Bengal Government.

Government House (1779-1805)

The former residence of the Governor General of India is now the official residence of the Governor of the West Bengal. It was built between 1779 and 1805 by the then Governor General, Marques of Wellesley. It was designed by Wyatt who based his design for the Government House on James paine’s published plan of kaddlcston Hall, the then magnificent new home of Lord Curzon, which was completed in two years previously in Derbyshire England. The Government House is adorned with Georgian pediments and porticos.

There are imposing sweeping steps leading up to the main entrance. The whole place like structure is surrounded by a majestic dome. Lord Curzon described the Calcutta creation as “without doubts the finest Government house occupied by the representative of any sovereign or government of the world”. This in the only building in Calcutta where no additions and alteration were made to the building.

 St. John’s Church (1787)

Build in 1787 form lottery money, St. John’s Church is noticeable for its adjoining churchyard which contains the tomb of the job Churnock, head of the East India Company who died in 1692.  The site of this building was donated by Maharaja Nabakrishan Deb and adjoining ground was the burial ground of the East India Company. The painting of the Last Supper and furniture like the tables, chairs and the throne used by the Warren Hastings still stand inside the church. The Charnok’s Mausoleum is a massive octagonal structure with serrated parapet and is crowned with a domed kiosk urn. There are many important graves and monuments in the churchyard among which the tomb of the British Admiral Watson, who played a significant role in recapturing Calcutta from the forces of Nawab of Bengal, prominently stands.

Town Hall (1914)

Town Hall, a sophisticated building designed in Palladian style by French military engineer Colonel Gastin, was opened in public in 1814. In was an emblem of pride and civic celebration of Bengal, the money for which was realized through a lottery in which people of Calcutta generously donated and was used for public gatherings. The design represents a mix of neo-classical and Palladian styles in imitation of architectural majesticity of the Roman Senate. Presently the building is restored and has a Museum called Kolkata Panorama on the socio-cultural and political evolution of the city on the ground floor and a library on Calcutta started with the personal collection of Mr. P.T. Nair, the barefoot historian and an avid lover and researcher on Calcutta. The Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm.

St. Andrews Church (1818)  

Opened to the public in 1818, Presbyterian church of the Church of Scotland occupies the site of the old Mayor’s Court and the Supreme court of Calcutta(1726-92). It was built under supervision of Maria Imhoff, wife of Marquess of Hestings. The church stands symmetrically on die axis of die Old Court House Street and acts as focus in streetscape. The church stands white and dignified and its north and south sides are portions with Doric Pillars and triglyph friezes. Although these are similar to St. John’s Church, the steeple is a more successful adaption of Gibb’s original prototype.

Metcalfe Hall (1844)

The magnificent building designed after the plan of the Charles Robinson conceived from the Greek trabeated style was erected in 1844 in the memory of Charles Theophilus Metcalfe (1835-36), the Governor of India and liberator of the press.

The Calcutta Public Library which was established in 1836 which afterwards became the Imperial Library now called National Library had its original home at Metcalfe Hall from 1844-1906. The double storied brick home provide on entrance of the western side through the present access of it is now on the eastern side through portico. Raised on plinth, the building covers an area of 46.5 X 30 X 16.70 m and is surrounded all around by an array of 30 Corinthian columns to support the massive entablature above. This impressive building comprises 15 halls in each storey to house originally the Imperial Library in it. The Agriculture and Horticulture Society was situated here. A Free Press Dinner in the name of Metcalfe existed for a long time in the city.   

Currency Building (1857)

The Building came to be known as Currency Building when the Government occupied a large part of the building for its Currency Development in 1868 from the Agra Bank Limited when their alliance with the Mastcrman Banking Corporation in London was dropped in the same year. The Agra Bank was housed from 1857 to 1867 which then shifted to the rear part of the premises at 26 Mangoe lane and eventually, went into liquidation in 1900. A handsome three storied building designed in Italian style , the walls were made of brick and lime. The roof was arched on iron joints and the floors covering a plinth area of 8762 sq. ft. were covered with marble and chunar stone. A handsome gate at the entrance, is of very florid design in wrought iron. Today, the building is protected by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) who stepped in response to a heightened public campaign by heritage conscious NGOs in the city as well as state and the local government initiatives following an overnight deliberate destruction of domes over its central courtyard space. ASI has started the restoration of Currency Building and has plane of creating conservation and documentation centre with all local NGOs working on the heritage.  

General Post Office (1868)

The construction of General Post Office was started in 1864 and opened in public in 1868. The handsome structure was built on the site of old fort of Calcutta and designed by Walter Granville. The stately structure of this corner building consist of two lofty storeys dominated by a corner dome and Corinthian colonnade.  There is also a large clock with three illuminated dials and the building is approached by wide flight of steps.

High Court (1872)

The High Court Building is significant Gothic structure in the city designed by the architect Water Granville and was completed by 1872. The design of the impressive edifice was taken straight from Gilbert Scott’s project for Hambung Rothams  (1854-1856). The plan, elevation and much of the details are Scott’s who in turn used the great medieval prototype of the famous Staadhuas at Ypress in Belgium for his model. The Stadhuas was virtually obliterated in World War I. The High Court with its tower of 50 meters high was used, in turn, as a model for faithfully reconstruction the Stadhus during 1920s and 1930s. The ground floor has elegant vaulted cloister of sandstone with Capital of Caen stone. These beautifully foliated pillars have been daubed with cream paint thinking it as an improvement on the original stone. The interiors of the lofty court rooms and throne for the judges are splendid indeed.